■In nature, your Phalaenopsis is typically fond of warm
temperatures (20 to 35 °C), but is adaptable to conditions
more comfortable for human habitation in temperate zones
(15 to 30 °C); at temperatures below 18 °C watering should
be reduced to avoid the risk of root rot. Phalaenopsis requires
high humidity (60-70%) and low light.
■Phalaenopsis
prefer to be potted in fir bark, which is more free-draining,
but sphagnum moss will also work. Keep your flower in
a pot with a lot of drainage. One of the most numerous
blunders that new growers make is to rot the roots. Overwatering
and poor drainage cause the roots to deterioriate, therefore
killing the plant. Be careful to water when you feel the
soil is dry through and through is the safest thing to
do.
Light is quite vital to the well-being of the phalaenopsis
orchid. Keep it in indirect light near a southern window.
Be sure the sun does not directly reach the leaves, which
will cause burning and ugly brown marks. If the leaf feels
hot to the touch, move it away immediately! On the other
hand, phalaenopsis grown in poor dark areas tend to grow
floppy dark green leaves and rarely flower.
■Phalaenopsis
roots are quite thick, and the green point at the ends
signifies that the root is actively growing. It is okay
for them to climb out of the pots. Keep the plant fertilized
with a 1/4 diluted strength balanced fertilizer three
times out of four waterings.
■The
flower spikes appear from the pockets near the base of
each leaf. The first sign is a light green "mitten-like"
object that protrudes from the leaf tissue. In about three
months, the spike enlongates until it begins to swell
fat buds. The buds will thus bloom. Usually you can tell
what color the phalaenopsis is by looking at the bud color.
After the flowers fade, some people prefer to cut the
spike above the highest node (section). This may produce
another flower spike or more rarely a keiki (a baby orchid
plant that can be planted).